It all started with:
I was thinking is it possible to modify the 32 valve V8 SHO some much to get 600 hp and were should I start if its possible. i have $15000 to work with
stock bore & stroke,
1.28" intake valves, 1.18" exhaust
large tube headers
.350" int valve lift, .340" ex valve lift
320 seat to seat duration
Desktop Dyno gives me 415 Hp between 8,500-10,000 rpm NA
so you are going to need NOS or a blower, to get to 600 HP, 8 lb/min NOS would do it.
What transmission did you have in mind?
Where would I start?
FPS automotive, have them yank the engine and ATX, rebuild the ATX with shift kit for NOS use.
Have them weld the cams and add a 200 HP NOS kit. That might cost $5,000 and you may need the other $10,000 for 4 replacement ATX/year. You might run 13's in the qtr.
Don't like NOS?, do a 1/4" over bore for 4.0L that and a FPS ATX would cost all of $15,000. You will need custom pistons, con rods, valves & cams & head gasket & PCM. Same place start at FPS in Atlanta GA.
5300-B Rapid Run Rd
Cincinnati Ohio 45238
they are working on a turbo kit.
To make 600 HP you have to be able to remove some hellacious heat from the heads, I don't think you can do it, 3 HP/CID? I would set my sites for 450 HP max, it is much more realistic.
Possibly, with some suspension work to lock down the front and the rear of
the car, but I suspect that a Quaife, Torsen, or other type of limited-slip
setup would be necessary to get a FWD car to get the ET.
I'm sure you could easily have the HP and the trap speed that are the equivalent of a 12-second car, but getting the ET is another matter. IIRC, Josh's Gen 2 s/c car turns a fantastic trap speed, but he's only low 13s.
Lake Orion, MI
'95 MTX green 83k
I spent roughly on parts and installation $1,500 and ran consistent 13.8's. I
can honestly say that if I spent another $2,000 on a FPS tranny, Flip Chip to
retard timing consistently and a few other minor misc parts... I could run 12's.
And not just for ONE run, multiple times mind you.
$15,000 probably isn't enough. There is a turbo SHO in NJ running 11's with a
$24,000 turbo setup by someone in Long Island..
Why do you want those power levels in a FWD car? Are you putting the motor into something else?
Yes, anything is possible. BUT....would 600 HP in a 3.4-4.0 motor with an ATX
be very streetable? Probably not. 600 HP from a 504 ci big-block Chevy crate
motor would be cheap, easy and streetable. I agree with Tim, 450 HP
could be a streetable number to work with. If you live in CA with only 91 octane fuel, 450 may be even too much to expect unless you have a ready source of 100 octane unleaded racing gas.
This would entail a pair of turbos or a supercharger. With V6 SHOs, close to 400 HP at the wheels is possible with the 9 psi blower, and Ransom gets 451 to the wheels with his 12 # setup (near 550 at the flywheel).
If you did a LOT of the work yourself, as in all disassembly/reassembly, tuning, etc, you "might" squeak in at $15K, but I would doubt it. If you have to pay someone, I would easily double that number.
Major engine work, such as new lower comp pistons, balancing, head work, etc. Don't know if the rods are good for that HP level. Also some different cam grinds, that would be a few thousand. Plus all of the fabrication for the turbos or the s/c. Paying someone would cost a bunch.......doing it yourself would help. Rickety can make a set of headers for around $2K. Plus all of the other upgrades for ignition, cooling water/oil/intake air. It's possible that the 4.0 overbore may be too much for a turbo or s/c car, but a bit of an overbore could help.
Tranny upgrade. For a good rebuild with a Quaife and a high-stall converter, figure around $4,500. Also start a "tranny rebuild" jar, as the tranny will probably have to be freshened up every 20-25K or so. Suspension and unibody stiffening would be needed to get the power to the ground.
Then there is the whole PCM calibration issue. You could tackle this yourself with testing equipment and a generous Dynojet budget. To pay someone will cost a bunch.
At this point, having spent $15-35K for a 450-500 flywheel HP Gen 3 (351-390 to the wheels), The car would not be very livable on the street, but would be in the realm of a weekend, cruiser-type car. You could then add a nitrous shot on top of this, which would take more PCM calibration.
It's all in what you want!
Lake Orion, MI
'95 MTX green 83k
For $24,000 you could buy a sub 10 sec older muscle car and bolt it to the
rear of your SHO, rig up a synchronized throttle assembly and run 11's. It could
be so designed that you could unhook it for normal street driving.
.ps I was at the track last weekend and saw a nine second chevy nova for sale for $12,000.
David Ware - David@libraelectric.net