Home | Mailing List | Specifications | Care and Feeding | Modifications | Vendors | Literature
When re installing the surge tank do you:
A: say to hell with those 2 annoying 12mm bolts and let the tank hang freely.
B: mutter several oaths directed at first at no one then more pointedly at the idiot who designed the damn thing.
C: whistle and have a grand time while getting your arms cut up as you try in vain to put those 2 damn 12 mm bolts in.
Yup I'm working on that stupid tank. took it off to check my back plugs and put 3 new coils on.
You only need to have one surge tank support installed. If you leave the lower bolt loose then you only have one bolt to worry about. Probably too late now though.
When removing the surge tank, I only undo the upper bolts that connect the support to the surge tank. This keeps the supports properly aligned for reinstallation. On reassembly, position the surge tank in place and install the two bolts first, screwing them down to almost hand tight. There is plenty of room to reach behind the surge tank, if you do the bolts first. Much harder if you install the runners first (or you don't remove the runners when removing the surge tank). And you definitely need a ratcheting 12mm box-end wrench.
Re assembly went off without a hitch once i got the 2 12mm bolts in the backside of the surge tank. then i had to jump it as the car was dead. but when she finally hit asphalt she ran great. pulled hard, okay yeah i hear you laughing carter...just cause some of us don't have a blower....lol. anyways now to clear the codes out and figure out why my car thinks that its low on coolant even though its topped off...
1 heli-coil: $20, 3 sparkplug coils: $270 cheating Ford outta $4600: PRICELESS!!
what do mechanics know? They said you need to drop the motor and replace the head. you cant heli-coil it.
well ill be damned if ill let them do that i did what they said i couldn't do and it works so suck my big toe!
i always take the runners off first lol. as for the ratching wrench...haven't used one yet oops but i can imagine how much nicer it would be...prolly save me some skin too. Ben
I move the ground strap stud to the surge tank end of the support and leave the lower bolt a loose so the support can swing down when the top stud is removed. I completely remove the one on the drivers side.
When removing the tank I just loosen the top stud nut, then take the stud completely out of the tank. You need to put a washer on top of the ground strap.
Long skinny arms help a lot. I take the upper bolts off with a Plain Craftsman 12mm combo wrench and put them back tight as possible with the same non-ratcheting wrench. It's not for me to leave stuff off on Customer cars unrequested. That's the way it came off - That's the way it goes back on, unfortunately.
Blood Sacrifice is a NECESSARY Component of ANY successful repair ! ! ! The Car Repair Gods will have their due ! If you DON'T Bleed, you'll pay 10x over in pain and suffering with repercussions from NOT Bleeding.
Picking Scabs does NOT Count, either.
"Bleeds at least once a week from some sharp corner or another." Eric Lehmann
I moved my ground strap to the top bolt-stug on the alternator.