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V8 SHO Engine Removal
Many thanks to John the SHO guy.
REMOVING SUB FRAME WITH ENGINE AND
TRANSMISSION INTACT FROM GEN 3 SHO
Here are the steps I followed to
drop the sub frame out the bottom with the engine and transmission still intact
and anchored to the sub frame. I did this to replace the transmission, then did
several other maintenance items on the engine after it was dropped.
- Move the driverís set all the
way back before you remove the battery. This will make disconnecting the
steering column from the steering rack much easier.
- Remove the battery
- Remove the air box cover/MAF/flex
pipe assembly. Unplug the MAF and ICT connectors, loosen clamp on throttle
body, unhook air box cover, then remove assembly.
- Disconnect throttle and cruise
control cables from throttle body and disconnect associated brackets. Place
cables with brackets aside. It is not necessary to remove the cables from the
accelerator pedal or the cruise control module. The cables will not interfere
with dropping the sub frame.
- Remove valance cover under the
car by removing valance-to-bumper cover screws, valance-to-wheel well liner
screws (one each side), and valance to sub frame bolts (three total).
- Drain coolant by disconnecting
the small hose that comes off the lower radiator hose under the right
(passenger) side of the bumper cover.
- Remove degasser tank.
Disconnect large hose at bottom front of tank, two small hoses on top of tank,
wire harness across top of tank (take care not to break plastic tabs on tank
by slowly rolling the harness out), bolt in side and nut at back, slide tank
up and out of body (need to tilt somewhat to get hose bard around a/c line Ė
some coolant will leak out when you do this), unplug low coolant sensor.
- Drain power steering reservoir
(I used a suction device to pull fluid out from top of reservoir).
- Remove power steering
reservoir. Disconnect three connections for reservoir-to-body (one bolt, three
nuts). Remember which of the mounting studs has the alternator power harness
bracket connected to it (usually the top stud). Turn reservoir sideways to
remove fluid return line (return line will still have fluid, so be prepared to
plug this with a bolt or something else). Plug reservoir return flange
(reservoir will still have fluid in it). Remove large hose from power steering
pump. Place rags under connection, because fluid will leak when hose is
removed. Drain remainder of fluid in reservoir and set aside.
- Relieve pressure in fuel rail
by depressing Schrader valve. Take precautions when dealing with fluid under
pressure. Wear protective equipment (goggles, gloves, etc.).
- Disconnect fuel lines using
fuel/air conditioning fittings removal tools. These can be purchased at any
major auto parts store or tool outlet. After disconnecting, you may want to
plug the ends, to prevent contamination of the fuel line or fuel rail.
- Disconnect EVAP vacuum line
that runs across the top back of the surge tank and connects to vacuum port at
surge tank entrance. Only need to disconnect from surge tank.
- Disconnect brake booster
vacuum line that connects into the back of the surge tank. You only need to
disconnect from the surge tank.
- Remove right (passenger) side
cowling below windshield. Remove metal clips along front edge and plastic
screws across top and lift cover off (stock plastic screws only need to be
turned 180 degrees (1/2 turn) to release connection). Remove three screws that
hold trough to body and lift out trough.
- Disconnect main wire harness
from PCM by unscrewing bolt in center of the connector. Connector will back
out of the PCM as you loosen retaining bolt.
- Disconnect the ground leads
from the firewall by removing the screw located to the right (toward driver)
of the EVAP module. You only need to remove the grounds from the firewall (one
connects to the engine through the lower surge tank support bolt and the other
goes to the PCM wire harness connector).
- Disconnect the upper and lower
radiator hoses from the radiator. Be prepared for some coolant to drain from
the hose and/or radiator when you remove the lower hose. To ease removal of
the lower hose, unbolt the black angled metal guard that connects to the fan
housing and runs under the lower radiator hose.
- Disconnect the large square
wire harness that sits over the top of the transmission. Like the PCM harness,
you disconnect by loosening the screw in the center of the connector.
- Disconnect white connector on
top of transmission.
- Disconnect the two heater
hoses located just below the driverís end of the surge tank. You only need to
disconnect the hoses from the metal lines at the surge tank. Donít need to
disconnect the hoses from the heater core connections at the firewall. Be
prepared for some coolant to possibly leak from these hoses when they are
- Disconnect the two coolant
temperature sensors located below the throttle body.
- For the a/c compressor, you
have two options.
- Remove the compressor from
the engine by unbolting. Be sure to unplug the clutch cycling switch at the
compressor and the Bank 1 Upstream O2 sensor.
- Discharge the a/c system and
disconnect the manifold from the a/c compressor. This will require
recharging the a/c system. Remember that it is unlawful to discharge r134a
into the atmosphere.
- Lower radiator hose needs to
be rerouted to avoid interfering with the a/c compressor discharge line, since
the a/c line will stay in place while the lower radiator hose will move with
the sub frame assembly.
- Disconnect right (passenger)
side inner fender liner from sub frame by removing three plastic retainers (pry
out). Some vehicles may be missing this, as the flap that connects to the
sub frame is stapled to the fender liner and can fall off.
- For wheels, you have two
- Unbolt the three studs that
hold each front strut to the strut tower. Remove the brake caliper from the
caliper bracket and the hose bracket from the strut and tie it up to the car
body (donít let it hang by the hose). Remove inner fender liner and unplug
the SARC and ABS sensors. These steps allow you to drop the sub frame with
the suspension and steering attached.
- Remove the spindle from the
strut. Disconnect tie rod end from spindle, sway bar link from sway bar,
lower ball joint, brake caliper (can hang from strut spring) and caliper
mount, remove rotor. Remove ABS sensor (Torx). Remove axle nut and unbolt
strut pinch bolt. Break taper of lower ball joint, separate joint by prying
down on control arm, and remove axle from spindle. Slide spindle off strut.
- Remove transmission cooling
lines. The pressure line can be disconnected below the fan shroud where the
rubber hose is clamped to the metal line that continues to the radiator. The
return line can be disconnected from the stock auxiliary transmission cooler.
Be prepared for transmission fluid to leak when hoses are separated. Plug all
open lines to prevent contamination and leaks.
- Disconnect power steering line
running from steering rack to power steering fluid cooler at the cooler. Be
prepared for fluid to leak when hose is removed from cooler. Plug all open
lines to prevent contamination and leaks.
- Disconnect cat-back exhaust
from Y-pipe. Use PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil on rusted bolts. Do not
lose the metal gasket between flanges.
- Remove the transmission cable
mount. First, disconnect the cable from the stem by removing nut and slipping
cable end off stem. Then, remove two bolts connecting the cable bracket to the
rear of the transmission casing and the one nut that secures the bracket to
the left (driver) side of the transmission casing. You do not need to remove
the cable from the bracket.
- Disconnect electrical
connection to EVAP module mounted on the firewall right (passenger) side.
- Disconnect battery ground lead
from the mounting stud located on the left (driver) quarter panel adjacent to
- Disconnect electrical
connector from transmission range sensor located on top of transmission
- Disconnect battery and
alternator leads from distribution box. Lift cover on right (passenger) side
of cover and unbolt each of the two leads.
- Place suitable jack stands
near each corner of the sub frame. Remove four sub frame-to-body bolts. PB
Blaster or equivalent should be sprayed through access holes onto sub frame
bolt exposed end to help loosen rusted connection.
- Raise vehicle slowly, watching
and listening for any restrictions or obstructions that may occur.
- If it becomes necessary to
move the sub frame after it is released from the vehicle, you can realign the
sub frame before installation by using weighted strings hung from each sub
bolt body connection matched to the corresponding sub frame anchor point.
- Installation is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to align the sub frame before torque'ng the sub frame bolts.
See repair manual or V8SHO.com for alignment procedure, or the service CD if
you have one.
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