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ATX R&R
new 7/07/04
Here’s the
official procedure from www.alldatadiy.com.
I personally haven’t done it so I will let others fill in the holes.
I keep
forgetting, are SHO transmissions AX4S or AX4N? This is for an AX4N. AX4S has
different instructions.
Removal
-
Remove battery ground cable and positive battery
cable.
-
Remove battery and battery tray.
-
Remove engine Air Cleaner
(ACL) .
-
Disconnect transaxle harness electrical
connector and Transmission Range (TR)
sensor electrical connector.
-
Remove shift actuator cable fitting, one nut and
disconnect transaxle shift cable from shift cable bracket and transaxle.
-
Remove shifter lever and retaining nut.
-
Disconnect fluid cooler lines from transaxle.
-
Remove four upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Remove one upper transaxle-to-engine stud (3.0L (2V) engine) or five upper
transaxle-to-engine bolts (3.0L (4V) and 3.4L (4V) engines).
-
Remove RH cowl assembly.
-
Install Rotunda Engine Lifting Brackets
134-00243 (3.0L 4V) or Rotunda Engine Lifting Brackets 303-F055 (014-00797)
(3.4L SHO) or equivalent.
-
Install Rotunda Three Bar Engine Support
303-D063 (D88L-6000-A) or equivalent and suitably support engine assembly.
-
Raise and suitably support vehicle on hoist.
-
Place drain pan under transaxle.
-
Loosen lower transaxle pan retaining bolt. Drain
fluid from transaxle.
-
When fluid is drained to level of transaxle pan
flange, remove remaining transaxle pan bolts gradually allowing fluid to
drain. Remove transaxle pan.
-
When transaxle fluid has completely drained,
reinstall transaxle pan.
-
Remove front tire and wheel assemblies.
-
Remove both halfshafts from vehicle.
-
CAUTION:
When servicing exhaust system or removing exhaust components, disconnect all
Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) at
the wiring connectors to prevent damage to the heated oxygen sensors and
wiring harness. CAUTION: When
servicing the 3.0L (4V) engine, the heated oxygen sensors must be removed from
the dual converter Y pipe or possible damage to the heated oxygen sensors may
occurs Do not remove the harness connectors from the bracket. Disconnect four
Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical
connectors.
-
Remove three bolts, seven nuts and dual
converter Y pipe assembly from vehicle.
-
Disconnect two starter motor electrical
connectors.
-
Remove one bolt, one shad and starter motor from
transaxle.
-
Remove one bolt and transmission housing cover
from transaxle (3.0L 2V engine only).
-
Remove front sub-frame.
-
Position Rotunda High Lift Transmission Jack
014-00942 or equivalent under transaxle and suitably support transaxle.
-
Remove one lower engine-to-transaxle bolt (3.0L
2V engine) or four lower engine-to-transaxle bolts (3.0L 4V and 3.4L 4V
engines).
-
Remove four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
-
Remove three bolts, two nuts and rear engine
support from transaxle.
-
Remove one bolt from RH engine mount brace.
-
Slowly lower transaxle making sure no
obstructions exist and remove transaxle from vehicle.
Installation
-
NOTE: Apply
Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-B or
equivalent to the converter pilot hub before installation. Place transaxle on
Rotunda High Lift Transmission Jack 014-00942 or equivalent with AX4N
Transmission Jack Adapter 307-F007 (014-00461) and position under vehicle.
-
Slowly raise transaxle. Make sure no
obstructions exist and position transaxle in engine compartment behind engine.
Align transaxle with engine block.
-
Install one bolt into RH engine mount brace.
Tighten bolt to 53-72 Nm (39-53 ft. lbs.)
.
-
Install rear engine support to transaxle and
secure with three bolts and two nuts. Tighten bolts and nuts to
53-72 Nm (39-53 ft. lbs.) .
-
Install four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
Tighten nuts to 27-46 Nm (20-34 ft. lbs.)
.
-
Install one lower transaxle-to-engine bolt (3.0L
2V engine) or four lower engine-to-transaxle bolts (3.0L 4V and 3.4L 4V
engines). Tighten bolt to 53-72 Nm (39-53
ft. lbs.) .
-
Install front sub-frame.
-
Remove Rotunda High Lift Transmission Jack
014-00942 or equivalent from under transaxle.
-
Install transmission housing cover and secure
with one bolt (3.0L 2V engine only). Tighten bolt to
9-12 Nm (80-106 inch lbs.) .
-
Install starter motor to transaxle. Secure with
one bolt and one stud. Tighten bolt and stud to
21-29 Nm (16-21 ft. lbs.) .
-
Connect two starter motor electrical connectors.
-
Install Y-pipe assembly into vehicle. Secure
with three bolts, seven nuts. Tighten nuts and bolts to
34-46 Nm (26-34 ft. lbs.) . Install
the Heated Oxygen Sensors (H02S)
3.0L (4V) only.
-
Connect four oxygen sensor (H02S) electrical
connectors.
-
Install both halfshafts into vehicle.
-
Install front tire and wheel assemblies.
-
Lower vehicle.
-
Remove Rotunda Three Bar Engine Support 303-D063
(D88L-6000-A) or equivalent from vehicle.
-
Remove Rotunda Three Bar Engine Support 303-D063
(D88L-6000-A) or equivalent. Remove Rotunda Engine Lifting Brackets 134-00243
(3.0L 4V) or Rotunda Engine Lifting Brackets 303-F055 (014-00797) (3.4L SHO)
or equivalents.
-
Install RH cowl assembly.
-
Install four upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and
one upper transaxle-to-engine stud (3.0L (2V) engine) or five upper
transaxle-to-engine bolts (3.0L 4V and 3.4L engines). Tighten bolts and stud
to 53-72 Nm (40-53 ft. lbs.) .
-
Connect fluid cooler lines from transaxle.
-
Verify that transaxle range sensor is adjusted
correctly.
-
Install transaxle shift cable lever assembly.
Tighten nut and washer to 12-15 Nm (9-11
ft. lbs.) .
-
Install transaxle shift cable into shift cable
bracket. Connect shift cable end to manual lever. Secure with shift actuator
cable fitting and one nut. Adjust Shift Control Linkage. Tighten nut to
19-26 Nm (14-19 ft. lbs.) .
-
Connect transaxle harness electrical connector
and TR sensor electrical connector.
-
Install Air Cleaner
(ACL) .
-
Install battery and battery tray.
-
Connect battery ground cable and positive
battery cable.
-
Fill transaxle to proper level using Motorcraft
MERCON(R) V Multi-Purpose
Automatic Transmission Fluid meeting MERCON(R)
V specification or equivalent.
Book time for R&R
with transfer of parts is 8.6 hours.
I know of at least two different ways of getting the tranny out that don't
require bleading the AC. One requires supporting the engine with a specially
designed cradle from the top, then disconnecting everything from the subframe
allowing it to hang before swinging it down supported only from the sway bar
mounts to expose the transmission. Unbolting the transmission and then using a
rather tall specialized jack to lower the tranny completes the task as
performed by the tranny shop I took it to the first time. This method requires
a lift and about 6 or 7 hours I was told by the tranny shop.
The method I
just used took me 4 hours (would have been less but I spend an extra hour
disconnecting the Supercharger drive system) and I used a floor jack with a
lot of luck. I drop engine, tranny and subframe all together and separate them
on the ground where I spare my knuckles the loss of flesh. Only snag is that
if you are using a floor jack as opposed to a portable lift (lifts one side at
a time using the bumper) it requires placing the jack on concrete blocks after
the limit of it's height is reached at least 3 times and of course the removal
of some bodywork to expose the bumper. I still don't break the AC lines loose
as I leave the compressor hanging in the engine compartment. I was able to
wrestle the tranny off the engine and subframe without the aid of a hoist,
though that probably wasn't a wise move considering my recent medical history.
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