new 11/06/02, updated 11/15/03, 4/9/2004
I just posted this on SHOforum and thought some of you may be interested in how to take the alternator out of the V8. If you try this you can leave out as many steps as you see fit. It is rather time consuming but not really difficult. You will enlarge your vocabulary though I'm sure.
1.Disconnect battery
2.Jack up front and remove tire
3.Remove lower endlink nut
4.Take ABS wire out of holder on strut.
5.Remove three strut nuts on top of tower
6.Remove brake line support from body
7.Lower strut as far as it will go
8.Loosen subframe bolts to let the subframe drop 2"-3"
9.From below remove belt with a 3/8" ratchet
10.Remove plug and wire from the alternator
11.Remove two bolts on bottom of the alternator
12.Remove cowling
13.Remove top bolt on the alternator, I had to disconnect the fuel lines because
I have big hands to do this.
You should be able to remove the alternator now. The only problem I had was getting the top bolt loose. It is a bolt with a threaded stud sticking out and I could not get a deep socket on it. Soaking with PB blaster overnight allowed it to come off the next day. I then sawed the studs off of the bolts. I think these studs are for a shield that no one puts back on.
Paul Nimz
See Also:
Alternator Replacement & More Loctite
Alternator Replacement, Scott Style
I just swapped out the alternator on my '97 and thought I'd give you all a 2nd idea when changing yours out versus Paul's posted procedure on V8SHO. I did not drop the subframe or loosen the strut. Here are my steps for removal:
1) Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Jack up the front of car the and remove right wheel.
3) While there remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the inner fender.
4) Remove the sway bar end link from the sway bar.
5) Disconnect the tie rod end from the hub and let hang down.
6) Remove the plastic upper and lower panels below the passenger side windshield for better visibility and easier access.
7) Loosen gas cap to relieve gas pressure.
8) Disconnect the fuel lines where they meet the fuel rail on top left side of engine (I did this so it was easier to get my hand down in there for the top bolt and nut).
9) Remove the 10mm nut on the top alternator bolt. What I did was lean over the front of the engine and put my right hand down behind the intake and snaked the box end of my wrench over to the nut. I used my left hand to position it and help re-seat it when I was out of throw.
10) Slide off plastic wire stay from bolt post.
11) Remove 14mm top alternator bolt with 14mm wrench like in step 9.
12) Remove (2) 10mm nuts from shield on lower part of alternator from wheel well.
13) Loosen tensioner and slide belt off alternator pulley.
14) Remove the (2) 14mm lower alternator bolts.
15) Alternator will now be loose. You should be able to spin the alternator to pull of the plastic wire connector and to slide back the rubber boot and remove the 10mm nut from the post that holds the battery cable.
16) At this point I flipped the alternator over so that the pulley was facing downwards. I was able to snake the alternator out between the loosened brake line and the motor mount.
17) Installation is the reverse.
I couldn't believe that Ford would make us loosen and drop the subframe and the strut to get the alternator out. I did try to bring it up past the back of the plenum before disconnecting the tie rod though and couldn't get it. Pay attention to how the alternator snakes out as there is not a lot of room and the install will need to go in exactly how it came out. The most difficult part was getting the top nut and bolt off. Large hands will not fit well down there. By the way, the SHO now has 130k and that was it's original alternator.
Jamie Best
'97 Black SHO
I have replaced one before as well, and I did not drop the subframe either. I got the brake line out of the way and loosened up the subframe so it sagged down enough to slip the alt out. took a little time.
Bryan C. King
Personally dropping one side of the subframe is a piece of cake and no big deal for me. And I have big hands and will always disassemble to make access easier. But do as you see fit.
Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx
No need to undo the fuel lines..
I removed the top bolt out before jacking car up
Left sway bar link alone, {rotate front wheels as if making rh turn} top of link moves forward and alternator will clear it.
I did undo the 10mm bolt that holes the brake line brake to body and I have that dumb plastic belt/pulley shield that takes 11mm nuts..
I did without dropping the subframe 2x in 24 hrs once to take it out put my old regulator in and back in that one no good drive it for a day bought new regulator and in and out to swap that one. week after Lapeer.. maybe I should buy an older alternator/starter test bench and do some work on the side..
Clare Allenby
___________________________________________________________________
4/9/2004
Well, I finished the job yesterday, she's back up and running and everything is status quo. I, however, look like a victim of domestic abuse...with bruises from the elbows down and many bloody knuckles. (no, Kirk, my fiancé doesn't beat me) One thing, since the alt drew the top charge from the battery, I was told I needed to charge the battery for a while rather than jumping the car. Evidently to avoid frying the diode in the alt. If this is true, should it be added to the how-to page? This was new info to me and maybe it could help someone else.
Thanks,
John M. Wood
___________________________________________________________________
4/9/2004
Yes, the alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery. It may but it
is a strain that is above the norm for it.
Paul Nimz