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Bleeding Brakes - Nimz Style


You need about 4' of clear vinyl tubing that is 1/4" ID and has 1/16" or 1/8" wall thickness. It is available at about any hardware store in the plumbing section. One narrow half gallon container. 10 or 11mm wrench. A quart of fluid at the minimum. Valvoline synthetic is readily available and not expensive. Do not use fluid that has been sitting around in a partial container for a 4 months or more.

*It is much easier to do this with the car jacked up and the wheels off.

*If the bleeder screw is opened too much it will let air leak in when you let the brake up or in the time you stop and tighten the bleeder screw up.

*If two people are available it is much easier as they can watch the hose and see if the fluid is coming out clean and air free.

*If you have taken the calipers off or are replacing the hoses it may take more pumps or more than one bleeding.

First drain as much old fluid as possible from the Master Cylinder and refill with new fluid. Place the hose on a rear bleeder screw and open the screw about a 1/4 turn, put the hose in the container. Start the car and pump the brakes (not fast) to the floor about 15 times. Close the bleeder screw and refill the MC. Go to the opposite side front wheel and repeat. Refill MC and go to the back, then to the other front.

*It has been suggested to get some of the old fluid out of the ABS pump to go somewhere and repeatedly activate the ABS on the brakes then rebleed.

Paul Nimz


I bought the Powerbleeder system that someone discussed a few months ago.
Have used it twice and it is great. Don't need to worry about air getting
back in through the threads, as the pressure is maintained outward until
the bleed screw is closed. Doesn't require two people. Only cost about
$50. Best tool investments I have made since gear wrench set I bought.




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