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Planning on doing the brake fluid change (doing brakes front & rear) on my
I don't believe that this maintenance was done on the car before I bought it.
In the Ford CD, they call for performance DOT3 fluid (D7AZ-19A331-A or ESA-M6C25-A).
I checked my local AutoZone, but they didn't have "performance" DOT3 fluid.
They did carry a couple different types of DOT3 & DOT3-4 fluids (regular & synthetic).
I would like to stay with the original fluid if at all possible.
I'm one of those that believe that fluid "types" shouldn't be switched once run for any length of time (eg: oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, etc).
I know a couple of SHO-owners suggest the synthetic stuff....just don't want to go that route.
Any suggestions ????
Or, do I have to pick this up at the Stealer ??
Since I'm changing out all of the fluid, I want to make sure that I put in the right stuff.
Thanks for any/all input....
Just a different opinion -
Higher performance fluid is typically more hygroscopic - absorbing
more water over time. This water tends to corrode internal brake
components more quickly than the less performance oriented grades.
If you run at the track or repeatedly beat on your brakes and risk
boiling the fluid, step up and change it yearly or after each track
If you don't, run a lower grade that you do not need to bleed so often.
Most SHO drivers don't come close to boiling their fluid on the street.
'96 TR SHO
That is partially true, there are LMA (low moisture absorption) fluids
out there, and as already stated the valvoline in the gold bottle is the
best dollar value out there.
Just got 8 liters of ATE Blue and 2 liters of ATE amber in the mail today.
I'm going to a VW TDI Get Together tomorrow and last time I flushed close to
20 sets of brakes.
Paul L Fisher
Ahh, Castrol isn't that bad. The Castrol GTX I use is made in Canada, not sure if the formulation is the same as in the US but when I did the cam weld, inside the valve cover's was spotless, no caramalization what so ever. Former owner also used Castrol. Granted it does not get as hot up here either.
When SF was a new grade of oil ( late 70's) and GM was having cam failures all the oil companies were self policing RE QA.
Someone did an independent test of oil quality and only 4 oil companies made what they represented. Mobil 1, Castrol, Wolf's Head and Amsoil. Every one else made out of spec crap.
I have reservations about the recent Castrol because of the high swings in Visc require a lot of Visc modifiers. But at least they are proven cheats and liars.
All I have used for last 15 years. My Chevelle and Mustang had Sunoco CAM2.
Never had an engine go
No, not at all. Look at the wet boiling point. That tells you what the fluid
does with the spec amount of moisture absorption.
Valvoline Synthetic r ATE is more than adequate for 99%+ of SHO owners, even
folks doing regular track events. If you are cooking either of those, you
have something else wrong (driver or equipment).