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End Links and Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

new 5/31/2004, updated 06/23/2004

I recently wanted to replace all the end links and sway bar bushings in my 97. With 110k on the clock, and not knowing the history of the car when I bought it three years ago I felt it time.

I ordered the parts from Kirk and sought out Pauls advice on the best way to go about this.

Here is his instructions to me and some interesting pictures.



The rear bushings and end links are the easiest. Just jack up the back end,
take the end links off, then the bushing saddles. Apply new bushings (I
used never-seize this time to lube the bushings) and put on the end links.
Do not over compress the end links when tightening up.

The front end links are not bad if you can get the old ones off. Use an 8mm
wrench on the hex to keep it from turning. Do not replace at this time wait
till the end. Now take the rear subframe bushings out, leaving the fronts
in place. You do not need to support the subframe, I coat the top of the
new aluminum bushing with silicone adhesive and apply never-seize to the
entire bolt length. While it is dropped down you can more easily get to the
front sway bar bushings. Replace these and then put in the new sub frame
bushings then the endlinks.

Now the fun. After the back of the subframe is tight 80 -100 ft lbs, you
can take the front ones out. There are four small nuts that hold them in
place as well as the main center bolt. Again when replacing the new bushing
I use silicone adhesive and never-seize.

Good luck.




Kirks Method:

1.Jack you car up and place it on jack stands. Place jack stands on jacking points of the body (you will see notches)

2. Get a board large enough to support the engine and trans (20 long of 2x6 is what I use)

3. Place board under motor and trans to support it

4. Loosen and remove the lower bolts of the front endlink

5. Remove rear subframe bolts

6. Lower slowly the engine cradle until you can see the 13mm bolts attaching the bar to the car.

7. Go to sears and buy a 13mm ratchet wrench

8. Loosen and remove the 13mm bolts

9. Remove the bar

Install follow directions from 9-1 you could take pics of each step



                         Above - why you don't want to use impact tool :{

My Thanks to Kirk for supplying the parts in a hurry, and to Paul for his great instructions. Also to Bryan C. King for the Aluminum Sub Frame Connectors.

 Like most anything else on our cars, it's not difficult, just time consuming. Also thanks to the main wrench, my BIL Aaron. He's nothing if not determined.  

Also, listed alphabetically, Doug and Kirk, for taking my last minute panic calls.


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