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Lube Lessons from OK


I did test a few things on the trip to OK. I took my mamanometer with some extra hose, the extra cooler for the oil cooler water and the fuel filter in the PCV line.

The mamanometer proves high and low pressure areas on a scale of 1 to 10 inches of water calibrated in 2/10" graduations. It is real hard to have a stable base point for "normal" pressure. I found that the cabin with the CC on but at the lowest fan setting to be the most representative of static pressure If I closed the windows and turned the CC off it tends to seal off the cabin, with the windows open it creates low pressure in the cabin. I tested the fender area where my cone filter is, the under hood area where an open filter would be, at the grill opening and two places at the cowl.

All showed some degree of higher pressure most around +8/10" at 60 to 80 mph. The cowl up by the CC intake was similar but at the windshield wipers it was +2" to 3". This is a good high pressure area which would increase with speed.

The extra cooler didn't leak even with the off road excursions and I'm sure did help in the OK heat. The harder the engine is worked the more this will help.

The gas filter was a clear plastic one and was distorting from the heat. It did allow some of the vapor to condense and stay on the housing. This with only 2800 miles. I replaced it with an all metal one.

Just for the record as far as Bob Fijal reported on the use of synthetics, Doug Lewis was referring to racing conditions with disregard to the normal change intervals. The ATX fluid in my '97 will last only 15k on regular fluid and 30k on synthetic. It is far more important here to have clean fluid. A good test of cleanliness of your fluid is a drop of new and some from you tranny stick on a white paper towel. You will know when you see it. I use Amsoil in the tranny and PS. I have no upshift problems but it is slow to downshift into 2nd when done manually.

As far as oil goes I've been looking for a reason to go to regular dino juice. I think if changed at 3k there is no problem as long as the correct weight for the season is used. Doug Lewis theorized that the synthetic oil allowed both the cam and the shims to wear at the same rate. The shims are suppose to take the wear and the cam shouldn't show any. He has seen Yamaha engines run on synthetic with worn down cam lobes.

Paul Nimz


Well let me ask this question..... the 96-99 SHO's engine and transmission are exactly the same correct? How is Mercon V recommended for the 98-99 SHO's while mercon 4 (or was it 3?) is recommended for the 96-97 SHO's??? They are the SAME thing?? Just curious.

Ryan S.
Pittsburgh, PA
97 TR
Porterized w/ K&N panel
Dynomax Thrush Turbo Mufflers
SARC Switch
Xenon Remote Control Driving Lights


What ever type you use I would not pay any attention to the OEM change interval. Way too long.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx

Where has Scooter been lately? Scott Miller, he's your boy right Ryan. He would also have first hand knowledge of trannies using MercV vs. Merc III. I remember him sayin something about the trannies he took apart in school and the clear differences between those with the V and those with III. I'm sure the clutch packs and what not have been modified for the newer fluid.

Chris


lol.. well i'm going to see him tonight .. (party at sharons). Not sure if he'll know what to recommend.. well he might i dunno.. i'll ask him though. He's been offlist alot i'm sure.. working alot and it's summer.. you gotta be outside w/ a 6 pack strapped to your waste detailing the car.. or something!

Ryan S.
Pittsburgh, PA
97 TR
Porterized w/ K&N panel
Dynomax Thrush Turbo Mufflers
SARC Switch
Xenon Remote Control Driving Lights


That just blows...............everything that i've ever thought about synthetic fluids is going down the drain. Although I don't want to believe what Doug said, I kinda have to since very few people know more about these cars than Doug. What about synthetic motor oils exactly causes problems with our V6 and V8 engines? Is it just not compatible or something like that?

June H. Han


Apparently the synthetics do too good of a job. In the ATX it is slippage when the clutches make contact, and on the engine it is that the valve shim is too well protected. He did say that if you want the tires to bark on upshifts it is a matter of adjustment. I've had extremely good luck with the Amsoil ATX fluid and will continue using it in this tranny.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx


Doug also said that the synthetic oil problem was specific to the Yamaha motors. Their valve shims are 1 step softer than the cam lobes. If they were two or 3 steps softer there would be no problem. Perhaps a blend of dino and synthetics would be the answer? I believe in the case of Mercon V that it is a blended formula.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx


Ford makes running changes and model year changes in their transmissions. Different springs and friction material are two things they can change. All Gen 3 SHOs have the AX4N. 96-97 use Mercon or Dexron III. All 98-99 use Mercon V.

Glen Murdock
Port Lavaca,TX
97 PG 66k
89 CR 127k


WE had fun at work this week... one of the claims adjusters had a 97 Sable tranny fail and had a hell of a time getting parts. Seems the front pump blew up. {behind a 3.0 Duratec}. Ford pump $1200 and no stock {surprise}Mister Transmission {shop were car was at, Nation wide Chain here} could not get parts, one of our rebuilders could not get them. Customer wanted his car back in a hurry. As outlined in his agreement we offered a used one. {55,000kms on unit car has 123,000kms on it} no flames or comments any one wants to know why can contact me off-list. Well seems that the Taurus/Sable use a different Transmission depending on where the heck the shifter is {floor vs. Column}. Then the shop says well it must have a SHO tranny in it. OK I check a TSB for Hard shifts and it shows 4 different part numbers. One for the SHO, one for the 3.0 Vulcan {slug} and 2 for the duratec depending on the shifter. I had read somewhere that the SHO Trans uses one more clutch plate in its packs... anyone knew if it is true???

Also I posted about one of our customer's have a loud tick in his SHO at Idle. Have not heard how the Shop as made out but last conversation I had on Wednesday with Dealership was the problem was a Sticking intake valve. Cause was Carbon build-up. they used a borescope and could see the carbon buildup on the valve and in the combustion chamber. Customer drives to and from Toronto for work, All highway miles..