Well, after swapping the front pads and rotors, and very carefully
bleeding the system again, the brake pedal is still soft. Funny thing
is, the pedal was high and firm at first, but then it got soft after I
pressed the pedal a few more times. It seems to me that points to MC
There doesn't appear to be any leakage between the MC and the booster.
I sprayed that area with brake cleaner and wiped it with a rag to
remove the small amount of fluid that was there from spillage. After
road testing the car for a while, there was no new fluid there.
Now that I have a replacement MC and booster (thanks to Bill T) I'm
wondering how much of a PITA is it going to be for me to do the swap.
I've done MC swaps before on other cars, but I'd like to know if there
are any particular things to watch out for w/ the SHO.
Would I be crazy to just swap the MC and leave my stock booster in
there? Or is there a good chance the booster itself has something to
do with the problems I'm having?
I highly doubt a bad booster could be causing a soft pedal. If the booster fails (no vacuum) you would end up with a firmer pedal (no power brakes).
Having pulled the booster I know how much of a PITA it is (unless you like laying on your back in front of the drivers seat and working a ratchet above your head) and I don't see it doing anything to correct your issues.
If the master cylinder was in question at all, the pedal would be hard to
press and apply the brakes. It is immensely easier to just change the MC
without the booster. I would strongly suggest attempting just the MC first.
Besides, I would imagine you'll need to be Houdini to get at the mounts
under the dash anyway.
I think you meant to say "booster" instead of "master cylinder" in
your first sentence. Other than that, I agree completely.
I happened across a tech bulletin from Cardone that might have
something to do with my issue.
So maybe I just need to jack the back of the car a little higher and
try bleeding the system again. I usually only jack it high enough so
the tires are about 2" off the ground.
Yup, my bad. I did mean to say booster instead of MC.
If you jack the back of the car, Tie wrap the bias valve in before jacking the car, or maybe you have bypass plugs - if so disregard.
Good suggestion. I was thinking about doing that permanently. That
linkage is looking pretty flimsy anyway.