new 3/13/02
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 8:09 PM
To: v8sho@v8sho.com
Subject: My day at the SHOshop
Okay, this is long so here goes.
Got to the SHOshop today. Met with Tom and Vadim and talked for about 20 minutes
about various stuff. First impression of the shop was that it was a working
shop, not a show room. It is all business and does not lend itself to pretty
picture taking. Nothing wrong with that.
When I was there, there were no 3rd gen SHO's. In fact, there was only 2 SHO's
in the shop and three parked in various areas around the parking lot, none of
them 3rd Gen.
I first asked about pinning the cams and they showed me some that they had just
done. A few observations; the cam that I got a close look at did not look all
that impressive. Although I agree that this fix is just that, a fix, I do not
believe that welding is the wrong answer. The cam that I saw had the pin
protruding out about 1/16 of an inch and did not look very clean. I asked Vadim
about why he was charging so much, $500.00, to pin the cams and he said it was
because of the cost of the drill bit which is destroyed in the process. He says
that the gear is very tough to drill through and will destroy the drill bit.
Sounded pretty plausible but I still have my doubts that it would cost that much
for a hardened drill bit but who knows.
He then brought up the idea of having new cams manufactured specifically for our
V8 SHO's. He said that the subject was brought up about 6 months ago or so and
there was very little serious interest. He mentioned a price of $500.00 per set
of 4 cams but told me that he was not absolutely sure of that cost so don't
quote him on it. I said that if it was only $500.00 that it would be a very good
deal. He described that they would be CNC machining the entire
camshaft from a single piece of metal. Even the gear would be machined on the
shaft. This would make ours very similar to the V6 SHO with the added exception
of the gear machined on. I am not an expert with machining so the idea of being
able to machine the intricate gear on the shaft seams a bit much for me. I don't
know though. I will tell you this much, if he can get a quality set of camshafts
for $500.00 it would be a steal.
Next topic brought up was the UDP. They are no longer selling or marketing the
harmonic balancer UDP due to its self destructing nature. They are now marketing
a very nice set of machined pulleys that go on the P/S pump and Alt I think.
They were very sweet and I got a picture of them that I will get posted as soon
as I can. He said that they will be going for $199.00 including the belt. He
mumbled something about possibly offering a sale of them but I couldn't be sure.
If you have a UDP now, like me, you are encouraged to keep an eye on it. Vadim
has said that many have flown apart.
I asked about the tranny issue. Vadim said that the transgo kit is a great idea
and he does recommend that. The issue of the V6 cams being off by 3-6 degrees
seams to be an old issue that isn't relevant anymore. Vadim says that the cams
now are right on.
I was able to get a close up look at the SHOGun and it looks like a rocket. It
was in pretty rough shape but very potent looking. I also got some photos of it
with the hatch open that I will post. I got a nice shot of an SVT Contour that
was in getting some work done. It had a totally chromed intake that looked
pretty trick.
I then asked about the progress of the supercharger set up for the V8. Tom told
me that it is pretty much the same as the last time. He has not done much more
than investigate the possibility and taken some measurements of what would have
to be moved. The battery would have to go as well as the overflow tank at a
minimum. Not sure of exactly how they would mount it and I neglected to ask.
From looking under my own hood, it would seam that the only way to mount it
would either be backward with the front facing the front of the engine, or up
high which would
necessitate a hood scoop or bulge. There was nothing at the shop to take a
picture of.
I also brought up my own personal anomaly of when I uncork my exhaust that I
actually drop my ET down the 1/4 mile. He looked at me and said well of course
you do. He says that every V8 SHO with a stock exhaust
that he has seen benefits from uncorking it. He has also heard the stories of
the people that have had there SHO's fall flat on there face when it is uncorked
and he doesn't have an explanation. I have to tell you that if I wasn't actually
living this anomaly, I would probably have looked at him a little weird when he
said that about the V8 SHO. Fact is it works for me so what do I have to doubt?
After I thought about it a bit though I think I may have an explanation. I think
that everybody that has seen a negative affect when uncorking, is also running
an aftermarket exhaust, i.e. mufflers and or bypass pipe. If that is the case
then your computers have probably set themselves up to run with that freer
flowing setup. Then when you uncork it, boom, it throws a big ole wrench in the
works and drops your torque flat on it's face. My system is bone stock. Stock
cats, stock flex pipe, stock third cat, stock pipe, stock muffs. So my computer
is setup for the extra back pressure and it actually benefits from the open
exhaust. This would explain why my first run with the open exhaust is always my
best then it tapers off.
Tom said that he does indeed read the e-mails from this list but is way too busy
to write very much so he is probably out here right now, Hi Tom.
Sorry for this being so long and thanks for reading.
Brian
I forgot to mention in my trip report about something I
learned about our cams. Vadim showed me that there are timing marks on both the
gear sprocket as well as the cam that can be aligned IF you have an engine that
is just now showing the signs of the sprocket slipping, i.e. ticking noise. It
is possible to have the gear re-aligned then welded. As long as you have not
completely slipped the sprocket and hit the pistons with the valves it can be
done. I guess you COULD even do it to a cam that has totally slipped but then
the weld would be the ONLY thing holding it in place vice an aid in keeping it
there. The cam has to be removed and the primary drive sprocket has to be taken
off. After it is you will see an alignment pin on the end face of the cam. Also
if you look close you will see a small round 1/4 inch timing mark on the gear.
Of course with a cam it is crucial to get it aligned right on the money and it
will take some work and careful measurement but it can be done. A good machine
shop should be able to dial it in. At least the marks are there.
Brian