Notes From Niks

New 12/03/2004, 02/09/2005, 02/17/2005

Eibach is rumored to be discontinuing the lowering springs for the Gen 3. I ordered some from the Tire Rack and got them in a three week period. Total cost of ~$260. If anyone wants lowering springs they better get them now.

If anyone out there uses Fram filters they should look at the enclosed picture of a Pennzoil filter cut open compared to a Motorcraft. Pennzoil filters are re-branded Frams.

Paul

Paul from time to time sends some interesting stuff. When he does, I'm going to put it here for all to see, comment.

Ooops, I forgot to ask his permission. Ohh well I have a secret weapon

Uncl Lar

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12/17/2004

This summer I had the TC not locking due to pre-FPS programming issues caused by the 3.98 gears. For the trip to California I was rightfully concerned about the tranny getting too hot. So I disconnected the radiator cooler and added another AUX cooler to the OEM AUX cooler and one I had already installed. The tranny fluid temps still got over 240F while chasing everyone through the desert mountains in 90F+ temps.

Now that winter is here in Illinois and ambient is in the 30Fs I find that the TC will not lock up at all when doing my usual routine or jumping in the car and proceeding immediately to highway speeds.

After talking to Doug and discussing he felt the TC would not lock up if the fluid temp was not up to a certain range in a certain time frame. Although my tranny temps would eventually get up to +140F while driving on the highway but due to the TC not being locked in a certain time frame, the TC would refuse to lock up at all. After some testing the too cool fluid was confirmed as the problem. If I let the car idle a bit or stop and turn the car off and restart (once the fluid is hot) then the TC works great.

So before the nice seasonal temps get worse (and expected to go to 0F this weekend) I am going to remove one of my AUX coolers, reconnect the radiator cooler and get one of Doug's tranny fluid T-stats. Once the t-stat is installed I will disconnect the radiator cooler again.

Today I removed the two AUX coolers I had, one was a Hayden engine oil cooler. Great big thing, the other was a Hayden 6 tube tube and fin cooler. Replaced them both with large Hayden tank style cooler and plumbed back in the radiator cooler.

After 30 miles of driving in 25F temps and high speeds preceded by a good long lengthy city driving warm up the fluid finally got up to 160F. But the TC would work as programmed much sooner.

Paul

Since Eric and I decided on the last rebuild of SW9 to bypass the factory cooler, we were wondering the same thing. Sadly she STB before I got really cold. Expectation is that she will come out of hiding by 31st. Mainly because of management transitions!:{

U.L.
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02/09/2005

My PS pump is making noise and it sounds like the rear bearing in it.
I have a used one and am planning on trying to put new bearings in the
old one. It has had Mobil One ATX fluid in it most of it's life.

Anyway, the problem I see is the high pressure hose at the big banjo
output fitting. As I understand it there is a rubber gasket under the
hose connector nut. This splits or wears and it start leaking. I
believe Carter had this problem. I know on mine it has to sit in just
the right position to not leak. There is suppose top be a repair kit
but you need to buy a special a tool to make it work which it doesn't
always do as I've been told.

So, why not take the banjo fitting, tap it out to a pipe thread and
use a hose nipple??? Any thoughts?

Enclosed is a picture of the PS pump, banjo fitting and metering "bolt".

There are two ~1/8" ports on the banjo bolt, a very small hole in the
middle and a ~3/32" hole in the tip that connects to the other ports.
This bolt will push in on the spring loaded disk inside the pump when
installed. But the leakage problem comes form the hose fitting not
pictured. It has a tapered rubber tip that should bottom out in the
banjo fitting. But with wear will not.
--
Paul Nimz
'97 TR
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I've used the check valve brake bleeder screws and found them to be lacking.

Here is a unique trick. Can't remember where I first read it.....

Use a 4' piece of 1/4" ID thin wall clear vinyl tubing and a bottle.
Cut a 1/2"slit in the side on one end about an 1" from the end. Then
plug that end with a short bolt and put this in a bottle with the end
covered. As you pump the fluid out it will be forced out the slit
which will then close when the pressure is off of it.
--
Paul Nimz
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02/17/2005

I just pulled my Ford pads off the front. They were down to slivers!
Not bad though for a day at ThunderHill, another day at Gingerman, the
round trip to Cali and the rest of my "normal" driving. But I see the
bling yellow plastic wrap I had around the brake hoses and one tie rod
end boot have seen a bit of heat damage.

Anyone have any brake cooling ideas? I know at the convention someone
had hooked up windshield washer spray heads to spray on the rotors
while driving and I had though about a forced air cooling after shut
down system a couple of years ago.
Paul

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