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Rear Brake Caliper Removal   

06/15/2004, 06/17/2004

Hi Everyone,

Just tried to change my rear brake pads on my 96 SHO with 107,500 miles. but I ran into a snafu, I managed to get the 13mm top bolt off of the caliper, but I
can't get enough clearance to use my air ratchet to get to the lower bolt.
So with the top bolt removed, I figured that I would just swing the caliper back and just pull the pads out and swap them for new ones. the only problem is, the parking brake hose is preventing me from swinging the caliper back.
I tried using a 13mm wrench to take the lower bolt off, but it just doesn't want to budge.
any ideas would be appreciated!!!



Use a 6 point socket.

Paul Nimz


Thanks Paul for the suggestion, actually the only thing that will fit in there is my 13mm craftsman hand wrench. but unfortunately, I can't get enough leverage with the short wrench to get the lower caliper bolt off.
There is this springy thing on the rear caliper that is in the way. I can get a socket onto the bolt, but I won't be able to get the ratchet onto the socket.



Well, you'll only be able to get a decent amount of torque on the thing if you put the other bolt back in to hold he caliper in place. After that, blast the bolt with Brake Kleen and/or PB Blaster or something and let it soak in. Then you might be able to get enough torque behind the wrench to break it loose.

Let's put it this way, I had a rear caliper coated in 1/8" of rust dust from eating my rotor alive in the rain, and using the above method with Brake Kleen, I was able to break it loose, and I'm not exactly the strongest person on the list.

The hard part of it all is that you have very little space to work in and get any kind of angle on the wrench for torque.

Also make sure you're turning it the right direction, since it's "backwards" facing away from you.

-John Breen III


Short extension on the socket will clear the ratchet head out past the caliper spring.
Double wrench on the bolt. {one wrench locked into the other.}
OR wrap the outer end of the wrench with a rag and strike hard with a hammer.. {Poor mans impact gun}
I have some wrenches with striking surfaces on them just for that purpose.
I just did mine and used all hand tools as my air compressor finally yakked.



You can hook another box end wrench onto the open end of the 13mm for extra
leverage. Try a 14mm box end.

Glen Murdock


Thanks to everyone who responded to my dilemma. I'll give it another try tonight when I get home from work. hopefully I can get that lower bolt off.



The best way to do this is to take your needle nose plier and open it up. Depending how wide
your pliers open up, you might not need to open it up all the way. Then just stick the needle nose pliers
into the rear piston where the two grooves are, and push down while turning with as much force as you can
push. My pistons seemed very tough to turn at first, but once you get going, it gets smoother as you begin
to turn. The best way to do this, is to get the tips of the needle nose pliers to the far edge of the
circumference of the piston as possible without going out too far (otherwise you'll slip out), therefore you
get the most torque out of it. And essentially, the tips of the pliers fit into the two grooves and to turn
the pliers clockwise. Please!!, don't anyone ever buy the brake piston CUBE tool thingy, it'll be no
different than flushing money down the toilet, not to mention the aggravation!
Hope this helps someone!!!


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