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New 12/03/2004
I have a theory, just a theory.
Engine A in car A goes to Doug or Kirk or Eric for a cam weld. The cam has moved
a hair. The welder/mechanic lines things up and all is well.
Engine B has a cam failure and welder/mechanic notes one damaged head, piston &
a few valves and replaces the damaged top end stuff.
Engine C in Car C loses a cam at WOT during a 2-3 upshift and takes out the side
of the block. That has happened.
Now I wonder how many folks like the owner of Engine B have damaged lower end
and don't know it? A rod gets a little bent, a crank a little twisted, a bearing
a little crushed. If it is not severe the engine limps on?
Is that a good reason to get 'em welded BEFORE the whole engine is fubar?
Buford
Doesn't seem like this is much of a question to me. Think about the
load path thru the engine when the valve impacts the piston. It will
have some affect, however small, on the long term life of the engine.
I don't understand 1) why you wouldn't weld and 1A) why you would buy
an unwelded SHO. This, in my book, is preventative maintenance and
should be done just like changing brake pads and oil filters.
Matt
I think your point is valid, Tim. However, if I understand/remember Larry's
situation correctly, the cam sprocket had slipped, but not spun. Wouldn't this
mean, in his case, that the bearings would not have been subject to the shock
associated with pistons/valves colliding? I can't remember, and couldn't find
Eric's video - was there evidence that any of the camshafts had been replaced
prior to being purchased for SOWHAT9?
As far as your last question, Yes, it's a good reason to get welded. I think
there are other associated, more pressing reasons to get welded. In other
words, if the potential for secondary damage to bearings and connecting rods is
the criterion one uses to decide whether or not to weld, I think the person's
got a screw loose (and it has nothing to do with the connecting rod).
Bottom line for me - if I was looking for a replacement engine, I would have
more confidence in an engine that has not experienced failure, than one that
has failed and been repaired, just for the potential of "unseen" secondary
damage.
Brad Bender
(to Brad)
I'm not too worried about a rear cam failure. If a cam spins in the rear head, the exhaust cam stops. The valves are small and the stems are tiny. They bend, the engine stops and all can be fixed. The impact is not severe enough to cause too much damage to the bottom end. If the valve heads break off, it's a different story, but this happens instantly.
If a cam spins in the front head, the intake cam stops. This presents a bigger problem because the intake valves are larger and when they impact the pistons they bend and can be pushed back into the quench area of the head. The piston can trap the head of the intake valve between it and the bottom of the head. This causes tons of stress in the rods and like someone else said, the powdered metal rods don't bent well.
Doug Lewis
Ford Performance Specialists Inc.
Atlanta Georgia (770) 949-7191
The journal size and crank weight of a V8SHO is about the same as a 283 SB
Chevy (over sized). The lower end of the V8SHO with a main web as opposed to
main bearing caps is much more ridged than the Chevy.
So when the load path "hits the fan" the lower end has no give and the
weakest link is the soft bearing itself.
Some folks have also lost connecting rods. I guess the powered rods neither
machine well or have much spring.
My point is if 75% of V8SHO have experienced cam failure, what % of that
have a lower end with a greatly shortened lower end life? Folks think they
fixed their motor but they have not?
The important point is this, if we go after Ford and Ford says OK, we will
shovel you guys a bunch of cams, how much was the cam repair? Problem is
JUST a cam repair / upper end repair will not fix some large number of
engines or properly compensate a large number of v8SHO owners who will
experience premature lower end failure.
Buford
(see Illustration below for reference on Journal Size) - Uncl Lar
There are two parts to this, first part is related to car care.
Second part is legal, what we need to ask from ford to be made whole.
I think a lot of V8 SHO owners have a crippled car with a weak bottom end
and may not know it.
Tim
Tim:
If this didn't cause the rod bearing to fail within a few hundred
miles after repair:
http://www.venom.org/shofiles/96MG/00_00189.JPG
http://www.venom.org/shofiles/96MG/00_00192.JPG
Then the "dings" on the pistons are not going to hurt the rod bearings
or crank assembly. The connecting rod, bearing, wrist pin, and
connecting rod cap were all reused on this cylinder and I proceeded to
put 10,000 miles on this motor after putting the depicted cylinder
back together using only a new piston (and a new head).
There is a reason I didn't reply yesterday to this post..... I guess
I stated the reason this time. As much as Ford screwed the pooch on
the camshaft drive design, the bottom end and block is more solid than
most other motors (let's not talk about the V6 SHO and rod bearings
'kay which has a lower compression ratio to boot).
Respectfully,
Scot Krietemeyer
Impressive, but nasty photos, thanks for sharing.
I am looking for reasons for Larry's' bearing failure. Like I said it's just
a theory.
It could be some other folks may not be as lucky, or 10k proves nothing, it
is 250k+ I am hoping for with a bottom end like that.
Buford
The bottom end on the V6 engine is as stout as they come. I'd put money on
the V6 to last over 200k long before I would the V8 for the simple fact that
there are more of them that have done it.
I agree the V8's bottom end is very well done. But the V6 has proven itself
in blower configurations, Nitrous, drags, and most importantly longevity.
Hell, IIRC the motor was tested to 8 or 10k RPM's by the engineers and
deemed 'safe' at those RPM's. I sincerely doubt that the V8 would last at
those RPM's.
Having to replace rod bearings at 150k is hardly an indictment of the
design. There are far more engines out there that are at that mileage and
more that have never been apart than there are examples that needed
bearings. And most of those are on MTX cars that were 'lugged' by folks who
don't know how to drive a stick.
Dave Garber
I'm currently looking for the video link myself.
The sprocket had started to come loose. It had, IIRC about 1/8-1/4 play in it.
The rest of the cams in the donor looked to be factory original and had secure
sprockets. To end the weld splatter theory, the cams were removed from the donor
and taken to Eric's shop where they were welded in between bites of his lunch.
Splatter would have had to travel @ 7 miles and I don't think they would have
made all the stop lights on Roosevelt Rd.
Uncl Lar
Usually a failure like yours can be traced to one of three things:
1) Poor lubrication. There have been isolated cases of the Duratec oil pump
going south and taking engines with 'em. The V8 uses the same design. Now I
haven't heard of any in a while, but when Scott Miller was at the Ford
dealer, he replaced two or three blown V6 duratec's and one V8 due to oil
pump failure while he was there. He had the V8 engine in his basement. That
engine only had 13k miles on it!
2) Bad bearing. It's possible the bearing itself simply 'self-destructed'.
It's rare, but I've seen that before too.
3) Something plugged up the passageway in the crank journal. This is
obviously related to lubrication, but it's not due to the oil pump itself.
There have been cases of casting flash breaking loose in the oil passages of
the crank journals, preventing oil from reaching the bearing. This is and
extremely rare occurrence, and I'm not even sure it would apply to the V8
SHO as I believe it isn't using a 'cast' crank.
If you are planning on re-using this engine, I'd suggest having the oil pump
looked at, and using a completely new/different crankshaft.
Dave Garber
Eric completely rebuilt the oil pump when we changed out the engines. All
indicators point to the fact that it was not a lube failure. For all intents and
purposes the bearing just STB. Details will follow upon autopsy.
Uncl Lar
Another thing to consider is the rod itself. It's also possible that the rod
end and/or the rod bolts were at fault. If there was any stretch in the
bolts, that would most certainly cause this kind of failure. Or if the rod
cap is faulty, either in shape or structural integrity. These you should be
able to check when you get them out of the car..
Dave Garber
Did Larry lose a rod bearing or a main bearing?
Buford
Rod Bearing Sheriff #4
Uncl Lar
Actually, I don't think he clarified that in his original post. He said that
#4 bearing went 'boom', I just assumed he meant rod number 4?
Dave Garber
Correctomundo Dave
Uncl Lar
The three pictures to the left of the Journal illustration are out of focus however I hope you can see the wear on the bearing and shrapnel in the oil pan. I tried the Macro setting on the Digital Camera - my bad.
Uncl Lar