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New 6/2/05 - thanks to Gregory Brown
This past Saturday, the SHO finally received a new ZF steering rack. A shoforum member, Kdawg, was extremely helpful in letting me work on my car at his place providing us with the tools necessary for the job!! The whole project took about 6 hours, which didn’t include our lunch break to a great bbq place! Since there is no write-up either on here or v8sho.com, I thought I would create one for future Gen III SHO owners.
I found that following the ford procedure (below) worked great….as long as it was followed in order! The job was straight forward but included working in some tight confined areas. Some notes that we took during the removal was that the steering rack is held on by 15/16” nuts…which is really the only standard size socket required for this project. Getting the steering rack nut off the passenger side required a short socket and a breaker bar…not due to the torque, but due to the fact your catalytic converter is in the way. It’s tight, but it is possible to get the socket in there. After the nut was broke loose, we just used a crescent wrench to back the nut off the entire length. Before lowering the subframe, disconnect the SARC sensors so that you don’t over extend them. Also, disconnect the power steering line from the intake manifold…something we forgot and it ripped the bracket during the lowering of the motor. I found lowering the subframe 4 inches was not enough, and required more like 6-8”. The only electrical connector that we found needed to be disconnected was the one from the power steering rack itself.
The next big chore comes in disconnecting the power steering lines from the rack. We found that if we removed the rack from the subframe, with the lines still connected, and then moved it toward the rear of the car so the bolts were hanging on the swaybar, it would give us more movement to undo the lines. To remove the lines requires an 18mm open end wrench. You will only get about 15 degrees of rotation before you hit the frame…when this happens, flip the wrench over and rotate it another 15 degrees. It took us about 15 minutes per line due to the very little movement of the wrench.
When you get the steering rack out of the car, you will need to remove the bolts from the steering rack. The bolts are splined in there and will need to be hit out with a hammer very carefully as not to damage the threads. Installation is the opposite of removal. When the rack is installed and ready for fluid, you must disconnect the fuel pump fuse, fill the power steering reservoir with fluid, and crank the motor for 30 seconds. Then, recheck the fluid level….add fluid if necessary, and crank the motor again for 30 seconds – this time turning the steering wheel side to side. These are the only things I can think of that need to be worth mentioning, in addition to the Ford procedure below. Good luck!
Steering Gear -- 3.4L Engine – Ford Service Procedure
1. Install a memory saver.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
3. From inside the vehicle, remove the nuts retaining the steering column tube boot to the bulkhead, position the boot upward, rotate the steering wheel to center the pinch bolt, and lock the steering wheel in place to prevent damage to the clock spring. Remove the bolt.
4. Raise the vehicle.
5. Remove the front wheel assemblies.
6. Remove the left cotter pin and tie-rod end retaining nut. Using Tie-Rod End Separator TOOL-3290-D, separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.
7. Remove the right cotter pin and tie-rod end retaining nut. Using Tie-Rod End Separator TOOL-3290-D, separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.
8. Remove the two steering gear retaining nuts from the rear of the subframe.
9. Remove the retaining bolts, flange nuts, and gasket from the flex tube-to-converter Y-pipe. Separate the tube from the pipe.
10. Using the rear lifting points only, position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 under the subframe and raise it into position.
11. Remove the two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower the subframe approximately 102 mm (4 in).
12. Disconnect the power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
13. Disconnect two HO2S connectors and locators from the bracket attaching the power steering hose to the subframe.
14. Remove the bolt attaching the power steering pressure hose to the subframe.
15. Disconnect the power steering hose locator from the bracket. Remove two retaining bolts from the bracket at the top of the steering gear and remove the bracket.
16. Position a drain pan under the steering gear.
17. Remove the power steering pressure and return hoses from the fittings at the steering gear. Place protective caps over both hoses and position them out of the way.
18. Remove the drain pan.
19. Rotate the power steering gear to clear the bolts from the subframe and pull the assembly through the left wheel well. Place the assembly on a bench.
1. Remove the protective caps and old Teflon® seals from the pressure and return hoses. Using Seal Replacer D90P-3517-A, install new Teflon® seals on the pressure and return hoses.
2. Install the power steering gear through the left wheel well, position it on top of the subframe, and install the retaining nuts finger tight.
3. Install the pressure and return hoses to the fittings at the power steering gear. Tighten the lines to 37 N-m (27 lb-ft).
4. Install the bolts that attach the power steering hose to the subframe. Tighten the bolts to 10 N-m (89 lb-in).
5. Connect the electrical connectors to the power steering auxiliary actuator and the power steering pressure switch.
6. Install one bolt securing the power steering hose to the bracket at the top of the steering gear. Tighten the bolt to 10 N-m (89 lb-in). Connect the hose locator to the bracket.
7. Connect two HO2S connectors and locators on the bracket to the power steering hose and to the subframe.
8. Raise the powertrain lift until the rear subframe contacts the body. Install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 165 N-m (122 lb-ft). Lower and remove Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 from the vehicle.
9. Tighten the power steering gear-to-subframe nuts. Tighten the nuts to 115 N-m (85 lb-ft).
10. Install a new gasket, retaining bolts, and nuts to the converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten the bolts to 40 N-m (30 lb-ft).
11. Partially lower the vehicle.
12. Install the left tie-rod end to the steering knuckle. Tighten the nut to 55 N-m (41 lb-ft). Install a new cotter pin.
13. Install the right tie-rod end to the steering knuckle. Tighten the nut to 55 N-m (41 lb-ft). Install a new cotter pin.
14. Install both front wheel assemblies. Tighten the wheel nuts to 128 N-m (94 lb-ft).
15. From inside the vehicle, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling to the steering gear. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 46 N-m (34 lb-ft). Position the boot down over the steering shaft and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 5 N-m (44 lb-in).
16. Connect the battery negative cable.
17. Fill and purge the system.
18. Check the operation of the system.
19. Check the toe setting and adjust it if necessary.
20. Remove the memory saver.