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Gage Install

Thanks to Jim Peterson

Dave, I got a late model Mustang dual gauge pod from my local NAPA dealer. I also ordered SW oil gauge and SW voltmeter. I bought an oil pressure switch/sender rather than having to route a plastic line full of oil into the car. I've had them leak in the past, and it's a real pain in the rear to clean up.

The next steps were:

  1. Remove A-Pillar cover [carefully pull in the direction of the rear view mirror from the top while working your fingers downward].
  2. Apply wide masking tape on cover for ease of marking location points for pod.
  3. Find location on cover for mounting pod and mark on tape.
  4. Decide on hole locations for wire routing, mark on the tape.
  5. Cut or drill holes [elongate along cover [top to bottom direction about 1" in length is sufficient] but do not destroy integrity of cover shape, and watch closely at the supports molded into the underside of the cover].
  6. I used a special black screw in the middle of the gauges to secure pod. It shapes to the cover better with this method.
  7. I also used three smaller special black screws along the top to secure pod. [the "special" screws only means the head was unique rather than a plain pan-head screw]
  8. Using double-backed tape to secure the pod to the cover just does not make sense due to weight of the gauges, heat from sun and closed windows.
  9. Paint the pod and cover to match. Use 600 wet sandpaper to rough-up the surface for the paint to stick better. I painted them both black even though I have the "tan" colored interior. I will paint the right A-Pillar cover black to match. It actually looks very good, and it is more neutral than trying to match the tan color and the black bezels on the gauges blend into the pillar better. [I will put pictures of my Pod and SHO badges on our SHOC site Saturday].
  10. I designed a wire "cable' assembly from the top gauge towards the second gauge and thru slots on the cover. I then routed the wires downward thru a slot next to the window near the edge of the left side of the dash. The slot is very close to the door opening. It was very easy to route wires down from this location towards to fuse box and brake pedal.
  11. Remove the panel on the side of the dash, to the outside and just above the hood latch for ease of wire routing.
  12. Route wires to their final destination. There is a rubber grommet very high up above the fuses I used to get into the engine compartment.

I hope this helps.
CSHOC Membership Director
Web Site: http://evlou.com/coloradoSHOclub.htm
'99 TR
True Duals
SHO Badges
K&N Cone Filter
A-Pillar Dual Gauge Pod
SHO Shop Lowering Springs
DynoMax Super Turbo Mufflers
Hlady/UncleJim Sensor Bracket



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