This is an easy job even without ramps, if you have a nice flat floor. If I can fit myself under and reach the oil filter and drain plug you can too. You don't needs ramps, just very long arms. The only frequent problem is getting the oil plug loose.
TOOLS:
PARTS:
The engine should be warm so the oil will drain quickly and dirt is in suspension, otherwise you will have dirty oil left in the engine contaminating the new oil.
First, open your hood, now while your hands are still clean.
I found the drain plug to be very tight. The correct size is 14 mm NOT 5/8" or crescent wrench. Use a long high-quality 6-point box-wrench or quality 6-point socket. This is an opportunity to risk rounding off the bolt end of the drain plug which is not made with the best material. With the drain pan in broke lose, arch your hand above it so it is above the hot oil when it shoots out. Remove the scalding hot drain plug with your fingers pausing to use bad words when the pain is unbearable. Soon after a dozen turns the hot drain plug will fall out and so will most of the oil. Allow about 5-10 minutes for most of the oil to drain and then screw back the oil drain plug hand tight. Don’t forget to reuse the brass washer on the drain plug which may or may not have stayed on the drain plug.
Relocate the drain pain to the front of the oil pan under the oil filter. The filter is "up there" a little but you can find it via the Braille method. Take a good look and remember where you got it because the next one has to go in the exact same place. Remove the oil filter and dump the hot oil into the drain pan. And let it drain for several minutes until it quits running.
While you are waiting, get out from under the car and get your new oil filter and slowly pour new motor oil in it until it is full. It will burp air several times and just pour in new oil every time it burps. Take your clean finger (the one you have been saving for this special occasion) and dip it in the oil and smear it on the O-ring on top of the new full oil filter. This helps the oil filter seal better and helps prevent leaks. Take this new filter and screw it on where you removed the old one.
Then take the drain pan and put it back under the drain plug and remove the drain plug again. When you removed the oil filter you vent some of the oil galleries and you will get more dirty oil.
Once done draining, replace and tighten the oil drain plug and tighten the filter. The old rule used to be tighten the filter until it just seats then turn another half or 3/4 turn. I learned that the filter may leak if not cinched down very well because the V8 SHO makes a lot of pressure at a healthy volume. To avoid leaks I tightened the oil filter much tighter than I am used to doing. The problem with over tightening oil filters is that once put on too tight they can be a beast to remove. I removed the old oil filter with a huge set of Channel-locks. Use moderation, and check for leaks after the change. K&N oil filters have a bid advantage here, not only are thy high quality but have a 1" nut built into the bottom of the can for easy removal.
Don't forget: - After you clean your self up, pour about 6 quarts of your favorite motor oil into the valve cover opening marked "OIL." - You should have almost 1/2 quart in the filter, that makes 6 1/2 quarts total and save the odd 1/2 quart for the next change. Yet another tip, I try to store my motor oil some place warm, (during the winter) at least room temperature, so it will not take a week to funnel into the car on cold days.
I recommend the 3" Lisle oil filter wrench for the factory size half quart oil filter. (it leaves the spent filter looking much nicer than the mammoth channel locks do). Filter wrenches which hug the sides can be slid up close to the base for best effect. Filter wrenches that cup the bottom of the filter can work well on moderately tight filters but on tight filters the sides just twist and crush out. Clean up again so that when you close your hood you don't get nasty greasy palm prints on your hood.
We pre-filled the oil filter to help prime the engine but the engine will still run "dry" for a fraction of a second. Just start it normally and let it idle. Don't race the engine. Let it run for a minute or two then check for leaks especially at the filter. Re-tighten as required, I needed to re-tighten a small fraction of a turn to stem a small trickle.
I was able to sample my oil when I changed it but it was not easy. It is just possible to get a drain pan under the oil pan without ramps or a lift. Extra room to get a sample correctly is tight without ramp or lift.
Two other notes, use a large drain pain, when I used a medium drain pan it was too small to catch all the spray and I ended up with a messy garage floor. I have use 1 quart oil filters without any problems. That changes the total oil capacity to an even 7 quarts.